The beach at Lakes Entrance stretches into the distance, it’s steep sandy shoreline collapses into the surf. Our short stay is at it end as we continue west along the Princes Highway towards our next stop in Cann River a small village in an opening in the bush. The kilometres speed by, without much changing in the landscape, we are passing through the heavily forested National Parks in southern Victoria, there are few villages or homes along this route. The road is cut through the bush and traverses through and over the undulating landscape. This area feels a long way from civilisation until we cross over the state border into New South Wales and roads signs begin to appear for our destination.
North of Eden
Eden Killer Whale Museum
We finally emerge from the bush above Twofold Bay on the eastern seaboard of Australia. Eden is the first proper town since we left Lake Entrance some 240km behind. Eden is famous for its Whaling history. Pods of killer whales would help steer Sperm whales into Twofold Bay where the whalers would harpoon the whales. Old Tom is the town’s most famous Killer whale, as leader of his pod he would work with the whalers to capture the whales in Twofold Bay. The Killer Whale Museum is situated on the hillside overlooking the harbour, we spent an hour looking around the display which also includes information about Eden up until WWII and details the activities of Australian forces during that time.
We head down to the harbour but all the shops and cafes are beginning to close for Christmas, so we park up and wander out onto the harbour pier.
Christmas on Pambula Beach
Go crazy it’s Christmas, Kangaroos hopping over the campsite, BBQ’s and burning sausages, the festive mood envelopes the camping site. Just a short walk through the dunes brings us out on the beach, what better way to chill out for Christmas with a walk along the beach in the sunshine.
Stormy Day on Narooma Beach
After two days in Pambula Beach I started getting itchy feet to move on again, leaving the small town of Pambula behind we head north towards Narooma, stopping at Wallaga Lakes to take in the views, the weather has started to turn a bit dark and stormy so we stop just short of Narooma and spend a wet and stormy Boxing Day in Narooma Beach under the trees, the beach access is at the back of the site through the bush, where the waves are crashing in on the beach. Island View Beach Resort it may be called but there is no view today.
What a difference a day makes…the Next Day the storm has cleared and we wander back onto the beach, surfers are already out in the water.
Pelicans in Wagonga Inlet
Narooma is just a couple of kilometres away, I regret we didn’t stay overnight here, it’s a small town on the river estuary, with a number of shops and bars. The steep hill leads us down to the river where we park up and wander along the waterfront. Wagonga Inlet is full of Pelicans who are keeping a close eye on the fishing dock, as soon as a new catch is brought in a whole bunch of Pelicans close in. Above us perched on the lampposts, Cormorants gaze out to sea.
Under clear blue skies, Narooma Bay is open to the sea on its north side where we watch surfers ride the waves. We take the old coastal road to Dalmeny stopping for refreshments, the coastal scenery here is beautiful with continuous golden sandy beaches at the side of the road. Rejoining the highway we travel on to Batemans Bay once again turning off the highway as we approach Batehaven, this route takes us along the old coastal road through all the small bays and past beaches with delightful names such as Lilli Pilli and Sunshine Bay, we stop at the side of the road on the beachfront in Batehaven, to take in the views.
Our afternoon journey takes us further north to Dolphin Bay where we turn off the highway by chance and find a beautiful campsite on Burrell Lake.
Check out the visitors website : Eden Killer Whale Museum above Twofold Bay, all the whaling history of Eden as well as including information about Eden up until WWII and details the activities of Australian forces during that time.
Where : Eden, New South Wales, Australia.
Travelling : 240km Lakes Entrance to Eden, the A1 southern coastal road through the State Forest National Park and over the state border into New South Wales. Pambula Beach is a further 19 km from Eden. Narooma is further 144km north going through the small town of Bega.
Camping or Campervan: Pambula Beach Holiday Park directly onto the white sandy beach that stretching 6km into the distance, the site has a family of Kangaroos hopping around, it is a big camping site, that somehow seems smaller. If i was staying in Narooma I’d try the BIG 4 in the centre of Narooma, we stayed in the campsite just outside of Narooma, its expensive and not the best felt a bit let down staying there, the access to the beach is questionable.
Don’t tell anyone: Malua Bay just a pretty chilled bay with cool atmosphere on the beach, south of Batehaven.
Next up: Rainbow Lorikeets
pjbourne is a full time architect, urban masterplanner and sustainability designer. In his free time he’s outside with a camera, running, hiking or mountain biking through the Alps where he lives or indoors in front of the iMac planning another long road trip in a campervan to the other side of the world.
Follow the Journal in full technicolour on the website at :
or Like the Facebook Page