Down along the Cove
After our early morning landing at Gatwick, we drove down the trusted A303 towards the Southern Jurassic coastline and rolling cliffs of Purbeck. We passed through the small village streets of West Lulworth then down a steep hill towards the picturesque coastline before arriving in Lulworth Cove at the base of the hill. Early in the morning we climbed the steep pathway out of the Cove and along the cliff-top coastal path on the top of the chalk coastline. We are rewarded with spectacular views along the coastline with extensive views out over the waves and into the English Channel.
This is a place I haven’t visited for a long time, it feels strange to be coming back after so many years, I had forgotten that there are two beaches separated by the headland jutting into the sea that makes up the famous Durdle door archway. I came down here with a group of friends back in 1985, we went swimming on this beach and I nearly fuckin’drowned ! No wonder it’s taken me so long to come back. It’s such a beautiful place but the tide is treacherous and really caught us out that day. We swam out on the incoming tide to the rocks but ended up in deep water with a long way to come back in and a strong undercurrent sucking us back out to sea….
The beach is shingled so it’s an effort to wander along as our feet keep slipping down the slope towards the water’s edge. The towering chalk cliffs form the backdrop to the beach as we wander towards the distant form of Bat’s Head with the aptly titled Bat’s Cave opening underneath.
Climbing back over the hill towards Lulworth Cove the path is now busy with walkers heading the other way, our early start has paid off as we wander downhill towards the quiet half moon harbour.
We stayed overnight at Lulworth Cove Inn just about 200m from the beach, it has good food and a proper beer garden although we were lucky with the weather.